The Pucher ridge (going through Gwasmet) is often referred to as a tour above the expectations it could create at a first sight. And it’s true. It combines a moderate approach through a wild moraine as well as a short trip on the Stäfelfirn glacier. We start to climb through an easy though difficult to find route that makes us spend more time than we had initially expected.
We finally arrive at the breach, setting our feet onto the ridge. The ridge is quite long and demands continuous attention but the result doesn’t disappoint. Key steps in a classic sharp and exposed configuration gives to this route the alpine character it promises. Through careful routing we manage to not lose more time and keep our timing within still reasonable limits before reaching the last part of the climb: the access to the summit of Pucher.
A first part on slab climbing, followed by a beautiful and, by the end of the ascent, challenging chimney makes us discover the summit.
The big reward comes in the shape of a Gipfelbuch where a beautiful work of good conservation and careful renewal gives us the insight into the first ascent (1905) made by H. Escher and F. Weber, members of the AACZ. Many other signatures from the first part of the 20th century make this book a real jewel.
We initiate the descent through a set of abseils and uncomfortable terraces until we reach the snowfield. The path to the hut won’t be a delight but yet another part of this route where very uncomfortable terrain makes us finally arrive to the valley more than 13 hours after we left the hut for the first time that morning. Before reaching the Golzernsee, a last look to the ridge and the final cheminney sets the perfect end to this great weekend.
Diego Moreno and Florian S.